Here's the back story. I've been to this place a couple of times before, and I like their wares. Being habitually lazy, I like anywhere that I can walk to without much effort. To say that the guy who runs it, Frank, knows his stuff is the acme of understatement. They recently expanded to the shop next door in this mini-strip around the corner from where I live. My fridge died (it's under warranty, although Hisense seem to want to doubt this notion, going out of their way to suggest that February 2013 to March 2014 is somehow more than three years...) and as someone who seems to have developed an aversion to wasting food, I'm taking the opportunity to eat out more.
The specialty of the house, their main board of fare, is this specific type of pizza from Naples. Frank has, according to his website and the large-wattage font printing on the restaurant walls, gained accreditation of the VPN Association - the Association of Vera Pizza Napoletana, or the Association of True Neapolitan Pizza. The dishes are basically prepared from scratch, and depending on where you sit, right in front of you. When laid out, festooned with white or red sauce and toppings, they're then cooked for 90 seconds at 425 degrees in a proper wood fired pizza oven right next to where they're prepared. According to their website, and their wall, '...when cooked, it should be thin, tender and fragrant.' I can tell you, it is.
I went in there on a Sunday night - the first Sunday they were open. Having gone their previously, the place had some seating restrictions that required booking. Since their expansion, such restrictions are no longer required, although with enough good notices the place should be packed and pumping on Friday and Saturday nights.
Main dishes comprise of 12 tomato-based options, and eight 'bianci' options - the white base. Additionally, they have a small but inviting antipasto menu ($6-$8, a platter for two @ $25), and an authentic Italian selection of deserts ($6-$12). Dolci, they call them, said the WASP from the suburbs. Tiramisu, which is probably the greatest thing in the history of the world, is available here, and theirs will either restore your faith in the greatness of humanity, or make you believe in Jesus. Dollar each way.
Not wanting to make an event out of it, just wanting the simple feed, I had the Salsicia. This was san marzano tomatoes, mozzarella, spicy pork sausage, roasted peppers, potatoes, fresh chilli, and a side of fresh chilli oil. It was the size of an old-timey 12" vinyl record, and was a very satisfying feed at an entirely reasonable $22. Dining alone (cue sad music) was taken care of very quickly (it was early in the evening on a Sunday as noted). It's bursting with flavour; the chilli isn't overpowering. The combination of flavours and textures is pleasing and the sausage is used enough, yet sparingly to not overpower the other toppings. They have a gluten free option, but I'm not one to ask about these things.
As dining experiences go, it's one of the more pleasant and voluminous assaults on all the senses. Well-apportioned, comfortable, tastes great, smells appealing and with very friendly, cordial staff. Wine selection is good and the Shiraz went down a treat.
The marketplace is flooded with franchise outlets; mass-produced to the point of them becoming generic. Should you not want to eat your pizza with a side order of Pink Floyd while sitting in a bean bag, this is probably more to your liking.
163 Darebin Rd, Thornbury 3071
Wednesday to Sunday: 5:30pm - 10:30pm (Friday lunch: 11:30am - 3:30pm); Sunday 11:30am - 10:30pm.
Dine in and take away. Fully licensed with a boutique selection of wines and Italian aperitifs, digestive and beers. No BYO. I paid full price and no, they're not paying me to write this.
